Bún Cá

Pho Cow Cali's kitchen is skilled enough to execute fish noodle soup properly when they offer it. The fried fish chunks maintain their texture in the tomato-based broth, the dill and green onion garnishes are fresh, and the vermicelli is perfectly cooked. It's a lighter, more delicate alternative to their heavy-hitting pho. Ask if it's available — it's sometimes a rotating special.

Mien Trung's expertise with Vietnamese noodle soups extends to fish noodle soup when they have it on the menu. The broth has the right tomato-tamarind base, the fish is properly fried and still crisp-edged, and the dill fragrance is unmistakable. Their central/southern Vietnamese orientation means they understand the importance of fresh herbs as accompaniment.

Phuong Trang's enormous menu sometimes includes fish noodle soup, though it's not always advertised. When available, the quality is consistent with their other dishes — properly fried fish, correct broth, and a full herb plate. The advantage of Phuong Trang is that if fish noodle soup isn't available, there are 200 other dishes to fall back on.