Hu Tieu Nam Vang — Phnom Penh noodle soup — is the sweet-savory counterpoint to pho's spiced warmth and bun bo Hue's lemongrass fire. This Cambodian-Chinese-Vietnamese hybrid features a clean, porky broth deepened with dried squid and dried shrimp, served with chewy tapioca noodles and a surf-and-turf parade of toppings: tender pork, poached shrimp, ground pork, and the optional funk of pork liver.

Ingredients

Broth

  • 1.3 kg (3 lb) pork bones (neck, spine, or leg)
  • 2.5 quarts water
  • 3 medium dried squid (about 60 g), rinsed
  • 1/3 cup dried shrimp
  • 1 large yellow onion, peeled and quartered
  • 1 oz yellow rock sugar
  • 2 tbsp salt
  • 570 g (1.25 lb) pork loin or shoulder

Bowls

  • 340-450 g (3/4-1 lb) dried tapioca stick noodles or flat rice noodles
  • 8 jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 225 g (1/2 lb) pork liver (optional)
  • 3 tbsp finely chopped garlic
  • 225 g (8 oz) ground pork
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper
  • Crispy caramelized shallots

Garnishes

  • 1/2 bunch Chinese chives, cut into 1.5-inch pieces
  • 1 small bunch Chinese celery, cut into 1.5-inch pieces
  • 2 cups bean sprouts
  • 2-3 Thai chilies, sliced
  • 2-3 limes, cut into wedges

Instructions

1

Make the broth

Place the pork bones in a large stockpot with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat and skim any scum that rises. Add the dried squid, dried shrimp, onion, rock sugar, salt, and pork loin. Once the broth returns to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 1 hour.

2

Cook the pork

After 1 hour, check the pork loin — it should be slightly chewy but not tough. When cooked to your liking, transfer it to a bowl of cold water and let it soak for 10 minutes to prevent it from drying out. Drain and refrigerate. Continue simmering the broth for another hour, for a total of 2 hours.

3

Strain and season

Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan. Skim as much fat from the top as you like. Taste and adjust with additional salt and rock sugar. The broth should taste slightly too strong because the noodles and other ingredients will dilute it. You should have about 4 quarts.

4

Prepare the toppings

While the broth simmers, poach the pork liver if using. Simmer it in water for about 15 minutes until firm, then cool in a bowl of water. Slice the cooked pork and liver into thin slices, about 1/8 inch thick. In a skillet, heat oil and fry the garlic until golden. In the same pan, cook the ground pork with salt and pepper, breaking it into small pieces.

5

Cook the noodles and shrimp

Cook the tapioca stick noodles or rice noodles in boiling water until al dente — 5-7 minutes for tapioca, 3-4 minutes for rice. Drain and rinse with cold water. Bring the broth to a simmer and poach the shrimp for about 2 minutes until curled and orange.

6

Assemble

For each bowl, place a portion of noodles in a strainer and dunk them in boiling water for 10-20 seconds to reheat. Empty into a bowl. Top with sliced pork, liver, and 2 shrimp. Add some cooked ground pork, fried garlic, and crispy caramelized shallots in the center. Finish with a sprinkling of black pepper. Bring the broth to a rolling boil and ladle about 2 cups into each bowl. Serve immediately with the garnishes.

VNomy Notes

  • Hu tieu is the "have-it-your-way" noodle soup. You pick your noodles — chewy tapioca sticks, flat rice noodles, or thin egg noodles — and your proteins: pork, shrimp, offal, roast duck, wontons, or all of the above. It is a choose-your-own-adventure in a bowl.
  • Dried squid is the secret ingredient. It is sold in plastic packages at Chinese and Vietnamese markets, usually near the dried mushrooms. If you cannot find it, double the dried shrimp to 2/3 cup total.
  • Yellow rock sugar is worth finding. It is called duong phen and is in the flour and starch aisle. Do not confuse it with white rock sugar. If unavailable, agave syrup works as a substitute — add it at the end to taste.
  • The broth rewards patience. A full 2-hour simmer builds layers that a quick boil cannot touch. For weeknight prep, make the broth and cook the meats a day ahead. Refrigerate overnight, then skim the solidified fat before reheating.
  • Chinese celery is different from regular celery. It has thinner, darker stalks and a stronger, more herbaceous flavor. If you cannot find it, use the leafy dark green tops from farmers' market celery.
  • The broth keeps for 4-5 days in the fridge and freezes well. The toppings — ground pork, fried garlic, caramelized shallots — can all be made in advance too.
  • Sa-te chili oil is a key condiment. It is not in the recipe but is traditionally served on the side. Look for Vietnamese sa-te made with lemongrass and dried shrimp.